Day 24: Hiking in Carnarvon Gorge - Main Gorge Walking Track

This morning we were up about 6.30am and having our fill of some nice warm porridge before heading off at 8am to do the 22km return main gorge walk.

It was still quite cold, as the sun was only just now peeping over into the campsite, when we made our walking stick selections and headed out.
We planned to walk the 9.7km to Big Bend and then on the return leg stop at a couple of sites that branch off from the main track.

This is a spectacular walk with 20 creek crossings, across Carnarvon Creek, as you wind your way along the boulder strewn floor of the gorge. The scenery and the awesome grandeur of the escarpment of the gorge as well as the very beautiful scenery of the creek is impossible to adequately describe in words. Hopefully the potos will provide some insight into Its beauty.

The walk out was good - we made quite good time and enjoyed the changing aspect of the gorge along the way out to Big Bend- which is a natural pool in Carnarvon Creek in an elbow of the gorge beneath looming sandsone walls. We rested here for a bit in the shade of large spotted gums and watched a couple of rainbow lorikeets in some holes high up in the walls that loomed above. Big Bend is a campsite for hikers wishing to walk out for an overnight stay in the gorge and even has a bush composting toilet.

Along our way we met and chatted with many other hikers - young and old. Cindy more than any of the rest of us has a way of quickly establishing a rapport with many people and by the the time we got back to camp we were well known and from then on we were always stopping for chats in the campsite or out hiking with our fellow campers.

Russ was having a problem with one of his hiking boots as we headed back. He had one hard spot in the side of the shoe that had started rubbing on his ankle and our solution was to try to relieve the pressure by applying a "woman's personal hygiene pad" around this part of his ankle.
This however did not work out well enough and eventually he just took the boot off and walked most of the return journey with just a sock on one foot - all the way back the 11km across the 20 creek crossings.
When we got back he just threw it on the ground and gave it a good bashing with his hiking stick.

The three of us girls did head into Boowinda Gorge on the return leg of our hike (Russ opted out of this side trip as with no shoe on one foot it would have been impossible to manage). There is no actual formed track and it involved much rock-hopping as we made our way into this sculpted side gorge.

Being just off the main track we also checked out the massive wind-eroded overhang that is Cathedral Cave - which is the site of a panorama of fantastic aboriginal artwork.

The walk (22km) was not only long - but with all the creek and walking over rocks in the river bed for the most part - it started to take its toll on us all on the return leg.
The last 5km we were all hurting one way or another - legs & feet were all worn out.

Within a few km of camp we spoke to a one of the Pathfinder group leaders who was heading out to bring back a young girl, from their group, who had an injury and was not able to continue to their overnight camp. He had a torch in hand and by the time he would be returning he would be needing it. Sounded a bit scary having to return in the dark especially with an injured person to bring back as well.

When we made it back to camp we were all exhausted and we just plonked ourselves down in our chairs, removed our shoes from our aching feet and pretty much just stayed like that for a while. Nobody was in a hurry to get moving again.

We eventually pushed ourselves to get going, made our way up for a hot shower and then we of course had to have more redd wine and spent some time admiring the photos we had taken along the walk today.

We sorted another yummy dinner together and planned where we would hike to tomorrow and again the cold, and the tiredness from the day, drove us to an early bed tonight.

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Day 23 - Off to Carnarvon Gorge National Park.

We had our first frost overnight. There was a light film of ice on the windscreen of the Hilux and the tea towel from last night felt like it had been starched. The water in one of Russell's tanks was iced up enough that it would not pump.

Ruth was first up and had the fire kicked off again with a few hot coals still left from last nights fire. After scouting for some more wood we lead a nice little fire going that helped warm us up over breakfast on this frosty morning.

We packed up and headed off around 8.30 am for our journey to Carnarvon Gorge - firstly making our way to Roma for a morning tea stop.
Then we were off up the Carnarvon Highway through Injune (our lunch stop) and arriving at Carnarvon Gorge campground about 2.30pm.

Carnarvon Gorge is an oasis in the semi-arid heart of central Queensland - with towering white sandstone cliffs forming a spectacular steep-sided gorge with narrow, vibrantly-coloured and lush side-gorges.

It is a pretty busy campground at this time of year - but we were very happy with the generous sized campsites we have.

We were set up in quick time and then headed off to check out the surrounds. We made our way to the starting point for the main gorge walks and enjoyed a short nature walk along Carnarvon Creek as the light was starting to fade. We got some really nice photos of the creek at this time of day.

Unfortunately we are not allowed to have fires in this National Park and we now need to rug up as night comes on and the air rapidly cools in the evenings. The night was therefore not a late one as you can only cope in the cold for so long and then it drives you to bed.

We did later discover that a few people had a "brazier" type of fire which they had brought with them and upon asking the rangers were given special permission to use. We were pretty annoyed at this as it is clearly stated that there are to be "no fires" in this NP and you cannot just start having different rules for a few.
We honestly don't understand why they don't organise a communal fire pit, at least some nights, to be managed by the rangers.

We also had a large group of teenagers with an organisation called "Pathfinders" set up all around the back area fom our campsite. So we were expecting to have some amount of noise into the evening - but - amazingly they were pretty good and in bed and quiet at a reaonable hour.

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Day 22 - Mitchell

It was a very cold start this morning but turned out a beautiful sunny day.

The caravan park we stayed at put on a Pancake breakfast and fire this morning - raising funds for the RFDS which is a common thing out this neck of the woods.
It was a yummy "all you can eat breakfast" and the fire was very welcome on this cold morning

After this enjoyable brekkie feast and chatting with other campers we packed up and went into town for coffee to wait for Cindy and Russ. We did not have long to wait as they had an early start from their overnight campsite at Nindingully Pub and arrived about 10.45am.

After a catch up and coffee with them we did some purchases for a big camp oven dinner - and then headed out to set up at the free campsite called "Fishermans Rest" (only about 5 km west of Mitchell). A localMItchell couple we were chatting with at Lawn Hill had recommended this free camp to us.

What we found out there was a magic bush camping spot on the banks of the Maranoa River - and there was only few other campers there (basically the campsite would only be suitable for about 6-8 campsites)

We selected our spots and set up for the night -

- then we went back into Mitchell to indulge ourselves at the Artesian Spa. We had a lovely soak in the hot (39 degree C) artesian bore water for an hour or so.

It was very relaxing and left us all very "mellow".

Late afternoon was spent back at camp setting up the campfire for cooking the camp oven and for warmth in the evening.
We all enjoyed just hanging out in this beautiful location - watching the birds on the river and the changing scene as the light changed with the oncoming evening.

Our chicken curry cooked in the camp oven was sensational !!!!!!

We spent a lovely night having a few too many red wines and chatting around the campfire and planning our next day to make our way to Carnarvon Gorge.

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Day 21 - Morven to Mitchell (via the Warrego Highway)

Today we have our shortest distance to travel so far this trip. We head off to travel the 90 km East to the small township of Mitchell.
We are looking forward to a relaxing couple of days in Mitchell - even though we will be needing to do some housekeeping today - eventually you have to do the basics like washing of clothes, towels and sheets.

Our stay tonight is at the Major Mitchell Caravan park on the banks of the Maranoa River just on the edge of the Mitchell township. It is a lovely park where they light a big campfire every
night for all to enjoy (in fact they seem to keep the fire ticking over all day). There is also a $5.00 pancake brekkie tomorrow morning - cooked at the fire pit to raise funds for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. We will definitely be fronting up for that one.

Today has turned into a beautiful sunny day - and after setting up camp we got the washing out on the line - and then went for a drive to scout out our free camp for tomorrow night with Cindy and Russ. We have checked out the 2x recommended sites out the West side of town on the river - one of these should do us nicely!!

The afternoon was spent just relaxing in the gorgeous sunshine.

We did take ourselves for a walk into the pub to stock up on more wine and lookaround the place a bit. We chatted with a couple of shopowners about the floods of the past couple of years. They are understandably still quite affected by these events and even thiugh they were here and lived through it - they find it hard to believe that the river (that is the Maranoa River) could come up so high and inundate all of the town.

This seems a lovely little community and the town has a really nice feel to it.

In the evening we joined several other travellers around the communal campfire listening to a bush poet - he was very talented and very funny so i have purchased one of his CD's to listen to in the car. Later around the fire we chatted with a couple young families who had just set off on a road trp for the school holidays.

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Day 20: Blackall to Morven - via Tambo on the Landsborough Highway

We were up early to walk up to the free hot showers provided in Blackall for travellers & truckies - about a 5 min walk from our campsite down by the Barcoo River.
It was worth getting up early as we did not have to wait and the showers were indeed hot and reasonably looked after - so we rated this free camp very highly.

Was not too cold last night and this morning - I think due to the cloud cover.

After breakfast we packed up and made tracks for out destination today - the little township of Morven - between Charleville and Mitchell. Heading for another free camp at Morven for the night.

We do these pack-ups pretty quickly now that we have settled into a well practised routine. As we had today it is even faster when we do not unhitch the camper from the car for an overnight stop.

We also have a new name for the tvan now. A fellow traveller said to us it reminded him of the "tardis" (of Dr Who fame). So we have now named it so.

Before heading off we went and checked out the "Black Stump".
This was used for surveying purposes and permanently marks the Astro Station which was established in 1887 to make latitude and longitude observations. At the time any country to the west of Blackall was considered to be - "beyond the Black Stump".

Our drive to Tambo (our morning tea stop) was again a drive where we have to be particularly alert in scanning the road ahead for wallabies and emus and dodging the prevalent roadkill on this road.
I have to report that this road is very bumpy and worse to travel than some of the dirt roads we have been on in our journeys outback. As I am sitting in the car now making notes on the ipad for the blog - I am finding that task quite challenging - but easier than it would be trying to write them. At least this will be legible.

Just out of Tambo we encountered a very large mob of cattle being droved up the road - by 2x horseman and guy on a bike. Just have to drive very slowly through them and the mob just starts to part as you go along. Thankfully they had been "de-horned" as I was worried how close to the car they were getting. The oncoming idiot on a motorbike was weaving through them far too quick and making the mob quite "skiddish".

By god it is really chilly out here today. Roughly 14 degrees C most of the day. When we stopped at Tambo for morning tea we pretty much jumped out of the car and ran into a little coffee shop where they had a fire going - this was very welcome.
I said to a local in there that we were heading for Carnarvon Gorge to which he responded - "well you will certainly know you are alive when you get up in the mornings there"

We loved this sign outside the "Tambo Teddies" shop - all the teddy bears in the shop were so gorgeous and they are handmade here by a couple of local ladies.

CAUTION - Teddies Crossing

We have been giving back to the local communities whenever we stop - by buying a coffee and foodstuffs and of cause we are buying fuel as we go. We do try to make our major food shopping purchases in the bigger centres as it is much cheaper.

We made it into our free camp for the night at the Recreation Grounds at the little township of Morven. They supply a lovely camping area (around the grounds of the football oval) with drinking water, toilets and hot showers and they have an honesty box requesting you donate to help keep these facilities in good condition. There are about 30 campers in here tonight.
Yes we did make a donation!!

I met a lovely couple from Victoria who had sold their house and been on the road for 2.5 yrs. They said that compared to many they have met on their travels they are really only new at it - some they have met have been on the road for 10 plus yrs. they have however decided that they will by a house again back in country Victoria and only travel for about 4 mths of the year.

We managed to forage around the local bush land behind the campgrounds and find enough wood suitable for a camp fire tonight. It was so nice to be cosy and warm and eat dinner by our little campfire - but it was a shame that it was cloudy tonight and we did not get to enjoy looking at the stars as we sat outside around the campfire.

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Day 19 - Longreach to Blackall via Matilda Highway

We are now making our way to meet Ruth's neice and her husband (Cindy & Russell) at Carnarvon Gorge. We have been chatting with them in the last couple of days and we are very excited about our coming travels with them.

Since we plan to come back through Longreach after Carnarvon Gorge we decided not to stay another day and we will visit the Stockman's Hall of Fame on the return visit.

Have to say it is getting cold these last few days - and there is a definite possibility of frosts at Carnarvon Gorge.

We stopped for morning tea at Ilfracombe - and had a wander around this historic little town -

--- with it's outdoor displays of old machinery (the Great Machinery Mile)

---- and the historic Wellshot hotel which is over 100 years old.

The sign at the doorway reads - "The Public BAA"

Had to laugh at this sign out front of the Wellshot hotel

In the public bar, "hats with character" form a very unusual ceiling border. This is a collection of rustic hats that create an atmosphere reflecting the pioneering people of the area.

In 1872, Alexander Buchanan acquired one million acres of land which became the famous Wellshot Station and for many years this was the biggest sheep station in Australia (measured by he number of sheep) and from 1890 to 1916 it saw more than 400,000 sheep shorn every year. Wells hot is no longer Australia's largest station. In 1900/1901 they lost 220,000 sheep in severe drought and over time the property was subdivided and by 1926, drought and depression had reduced the flock 40,000.

Ilfracombe had a rush of growth (around 1893) when the railway arrived. Whole settlements followed the railhead, pulling up their foundations and moving whenever the airway pushed further inland.

There were many more emus on way to Barcaldine - we had to stop to let a couple cross the road.

Unfortunately we are starting to see much more roadkill again on this stretch of road.

In Barcaldine - the birthplace of what later became he Labor Party - we stopped to view the "Tree of knowledge". The tree was poisoned by someone in 2006 and they have now built a magnificent art work above the dead tree.

After leaving Barcaldine we stopped for lunch on the road to Blackall. So did couple of "stinky" road trains carrying cattle. So lunch was both noisy and smelly.

There was so much roadkill (wallaby mostly) on this stretch of road - the most prevalent we have seen so far in our travels. A rough estimate would be that there was at least 1x carcass every 50 metres.

Today was an easy day really with lots of stops to look around the places we passed through.

We decided to make camp at in Blackall at a free camp down by the Barcoo River. This campsite has toilets and they even provide hot showers (truckies showers) up the road closer to town. By nightfall there was about 20 campers/ travellers that had made camp here as well.

Just after setting up our camper we were surprised to see an old couple come riding through on a small sulky drawn by a Shetland pony - not something you would see everywhere!!!

Blackall is an interesting little town (population 1500) - with the area having first been explored by Thomas Mitchell in 1846. It was Mitchell's enthusiasm for the grasses of the region, which now bear his name, that led to the opening of the area for pastoral settlement in 1861.

In 1885 Blackall became the first town in Qld to sink an artesian bore. The town's water supply is now supplied by 3 bores - with the water bursting to the surface at a scorching 58 degrees C and it is pure drinking water. The water flows from the Great Artesian Basin under its own pressure.

So as with most of the towns with bore water in the outback it is cooling of water that is more important - not heating.

Blackall is also part of the Kunmurri (Rainbow Serpent) Art trail and they have have some unique works of art sprinkled around the town. These sculptures were specially commissioned for this art trail and are very creative pieces completed by very talented artists.

The Wedge Tail Eagle and Nest - fashioned from old tools, and timber and bolts from the old bridge (my photo is unfortunately spoilt by the thoughtless people who made camp right at this art work - when there was plenty of other sites available for them)
The artist describes it: "The nest is a home and a place to raise a family, which is another representation of what Blackall feels like to me"

The "Wood, Water and Wool" sculpture is fashioned from native timbers - to honour the historic Blackall Woolscour's centenary in 2007

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